The Truth About Fixing Under Eye Bags: It’s Not Just Concealer
No matter what your age, the under-eye area is one of the most difficult parts of the face to correct with makeup in a way that looks natural, smooth, and seamless with the rest of the skin. I totally understand the frustration because we all want that bright, smooth under-eye look, but the reality is this area moves constantly when we smile, talk, and express ourselves, so expecting concealer, color correctors, or foundation to look perfect, crease-free, and invisible all day is simply not realistic. The goal should not be perfection, but rather improvement so the under-eye area still looks natural in person and in natural light. The one exception to this is makeup for television, stage, or photography, which involves different techniques that I will address in another post. This article focuses on under-eye issues for everyday life, up close and in person.
Products to treat under-eye bags include, eye patches, color corrector, concealer, jade rollers to reduce puffiness and dark circles.
Before describing possible solutions for under-eye circles and bags, it’s important to understand what is actually happening under the eyes as we age, because not all under-eye problems are the same, and they cannot all be fixed with the same makeup product or cosmetic treatment. As we get older, the under-eye area goes through a variety of changes, including puffiness, dark circles, hollowing, fine lines, thin skin, and visible veins. Some people have bags, some have darkness, some have hollows, and many people have a combination of several issues, which is why this area is so tricky to correct.
As a makeup artist, one of the biggest mistakes I see is people constantly buying new under-eye products, especially concealers, hoping the next one will magically fix everything. The truth is, the problem is usually not the concealer; it’s understanding what type of under-eye issue you actually have and then choosing the correct solution, which may be makeup, skincare, professional treatments, or sometimes even surgery.
So before you go out and purchase another expensive concealer, eye brightener, or color corrector, it’s important to determine what type or types of under-eye problem you have, such as under-eye bags, puffiness, loss of volume, discoloration, or fine lines, and then focus on choosing the best solutions that will actually work for each problem.
One of the biggest misconceptions marketed by the beauty industry is that under-eye bags can be fixed by using a cosmetic product alone. For many people a great concealer can improve discoloration and slight shadowing from the tear trough, but it cannot flatten puffiness, add volume, or remove bags. If the under-eye area has a combination of hollowing, thin skin, and discoloration, concealer alone will not completely fix the problem, and on mature skin it can often make those issues look worse. Understanding the difference between under-eye issues is the key to achieving natural-looking results.
I’ve addressed the 5 most common under-eye concerns, possible causes, and solutions you may want to try as well as links to some of my favorite products for improving the under-eye appearance which include; caffeinated eye cream, a peach and salmon color corrector, hydrating concealer, de-puffing eye patches, a reusable gel eye mask and jade facial roller.
1. DARK CIRCLES (BROWN OR PURPLE DISCOLORATION)
Possible Causes: Genetics (very common), thin skin under the eyes, visible blood vessels, poor sleep, allergies, aging, loss of collagen, and sun damage causing pigmentation.
BEST SKINCARE AND MAKEUP SOLUTIONS
Graftopian HD Peach Color Corrector - Neutralize discoloration for flawless results
Kosas Revealer Extra Bright Alchemy Color Corrector – Full coverage for dark circles
Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer, Macadamia - A light-weight hydrating concealer
Kiehl's Avocado Eye Cream Treatment, Under Eye Cream with Caffeine for Puffiness and Dark Circles
RoC Retinol Correxion Under Eye Cream for Dark Circles - Retinol in eye cream thickens skin over time
Kiehl's Better Screen UV Serum SPF 50+, Invisible Facial Sunscreen with Collagen Peptide, UV filters shield UVA & UVB and boosts skin radiance around the eyes
Professional Cosmetic Dermatology Treatments
Lasers
Chemical Peels
Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP)
2. UNDER EYE BAGS (FAT PADS and VOLUME LOSS)
Possible Causes: Aging (very common after 50); loss of collagen and elastin; genetics, fluid retention; salt intake; poor sleep; and herniated fat pads.
BEST SKINCARE AND MAKEUP SOLUTIONS
Clinique All About Eyes Lightweight Eye Cream With Vitamin C - Use for Hydrating & De-puffing.
IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye Concealer - PRO TIP: Apply concealer slightly lower around the eye bag, not directly on the puffy area of the eye bagProfessional Cosmetic Dermatology and Surgical Treatments
Filler in the tear trough
Surgical lower blepharoplasty (most effective long-term solution)
3. PUFFINESS
Possible Causes: Fluid retention; salt; alcohol; allergies; crying; poor sleep; lying flat at night; sinus issues.
BEST SKINCARE SOLUTIONS
Terez & Honor Under Eye Patches for Puffiness with Caffeine - Hyaluronic Acid and Niacinamide
Neutrogena Hydro Boost + Eye Cream for Dark Circles & Puffiness w/Caffeine, Hyal. Acid & PeptidesLifestyle Solutions
Sleep with your head elevated
Reduce salt and alcohol
Lymphatic Massage
Gel Eye Mask Reusable Cold Therapy Gel Bead Eye Mask for Puffiness Dark Circles & Eye Bags.
Mount Lai De-Puffing Jade Facial Roller – PRO TIP: Store in the refrigerator, use chilled for smooth, firm and sculpted skin.
4. FINE LINES AND CREEPY SKIN
Possible Causes: Loss of collagen and elastin, sun damage, dehydration, aging, lifestyle factors such as Poor diet, excess alcohol, and smoking.
BEST SKINCARE AND MAKEUP SOLUTIONS
IT Cosmetics Confidence in an Eye Cream - Anti-Aging 2% Peptide Concentrate Eye Cream for Dark Circles & Wrinkles, 48HR hydration smooths and brightens. PRO TIP: Apply this hydrating eye cream and allow product to set and dry down before applying concealer.
RMS Beauty Revitalize Hydra Concealer - Hydrating Liquid Complexion Perfector. PRO TIP: Use a very small amount of RMS hydrating concealer. To set, lightly tap a small amount of Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Finish Setting Powder
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue - Hydrating Under Eye Cream with Time-Released Retinol & Botanical Complex for Dark Circles, Puffiness & Fine Lines
Professional Cosmetic Dermatology Treatments
Laser Resurfacing
Microneedling
Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP)
5. SMALL BLUE OR PURPLE VEINS SHOWING THROUGH SKIN
Possible Causes: Under-eye skin becomes thinner with age; genetics; fair skin.
BEST MAKEUP SOLUTIONS
Bobbi Brown Peach Color Corrector - Discoloration Under Eye Color Corrector, Neutralizes & Brightens.
ARTDECO Perfect Teint Light Reflecting Concealer - with Brush Applicator for no signs of tiredness.
Professional Cosmetic Dermatology Treatments
Laser vein treatment
Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP)
Tear Trough Filler
UNDER EYE ISSUES BEST TREATED WITH PROFESSIONAL COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY
Hollow tear troughs → Filler
Dark pigmentation → Laser or chemical peel
Crepey skin → CO2 laser, microneedling, Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP)
Thin skin showing veins → Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP), laser
Puffiness → Radiofrequency tightening
Skin laxity → Ultherapy or RF treatments
UNDER EYE ISSUES BEST TREATED WITH COSMETIC SURGERY
Large under-eye bags (Lower Blepharoplasty is sometimes the only permanent solution)
Herniated fat pads
Excess loose skin under the eyes
Severe puffiness that never goes away
FINAL THOUGHTS
I hope this article has helped you better understand what a good concealer can and cannot achieve. I am not anti-concealer at all, and I use concealer on my clients and myself regularly, but I do my best to address the cosmetic concerns that are the most common questions I get from clients and in my classes. Understanding whether your concern is discoloration, puffiness, bags, hollowing, fine lines, or thin skin will help you choose the right solution instead of wasting money on products that cannot fix the problem.
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Disclaimer: This article is solely intended for information and entertainment purposes only. It is not a substitute or to be used as or for medical advice. For your specific under-eye concerns, please consult a qualified board certified dermatologist or medical professional.