The Truth About Covering Under Eye Bags: It’s Not Just Concealer

No matter what your age, the under-eye area is one of the most difficult parts of the face to correct with makeup in a way that looks natural, smooth, and seamless with the rest of the skin. I totally understand the frustration because we all want that bright, smooth under-eye look, but the reality is this area moves constantly when we smile, talk, and express ourselves, so expecting concealer, color correctors, or foundation to look perfect, crease-free, and invisible all day is simply not realistic. The goal should not be perfection, but rather improvement so the under-eye area still looks natural in person and in natural light. The one exception to this is makeup for television, stage, or photography, which involves different techniques that I will address in another post. This article focuses on under-eye issues for everyday life, up close and in person.

Before describing possible solutions for under-eye circles and bags, it’s important to understand what is actually happening under the eyes as we age, because not all under-eye problems are the same, and they cannot all be fixed with the same makeup product or cosmetic treatment. As we get older, the under-eye area goes through a variety of changes, including puffiness, dark circles, hollowing, fine lines, thin skin, and visible veins. Some people have bags, some have darkness, some have hollows, and many people have a combination of several issues, which is why this area is so tricky to correct.

As a makeup artist, one of the biggest mistakes I see is people constantly buying new under-eye products, especially concealers, hoping the next one will magically fix everything. The truth is, the problem is usually not the concealer; it’s understanding what type of under-eye issue you actually have and then choosing the correct solution, which may be makeup, skincare, professional treatments, or sometimes even surgery.

So before you go out and purchase another expensive concealer, eye brightener, or color corrector, it’s important to determine what type or types of under-eye problem you have, such as under-eye bags, puffiness, loss of volume, discoloration, or fine lines, and then focus on choosing the best solutions that will actually work for each problem.

One of the biggest misconceptions marketed by the beauty industry is that under-eye bags can be fixed by using a cosmetic product alone. A great concealer can improve mild discoloration and slight shadowing from the tear trough, but it cannot flatten puffiness, add volume, or remove bags. If the under-eye area has a combination of hollowing, thin skin, and discoloration, concealer alone will not completely fix the problem. Understanding the difference between under-eye issues is the key to achieving natural-looking results. Here I’ve addressed the 5 most common under-eye concerns, possible causes, and solutions you may want to try.

1. DARK CIRCLES (BROWN OR PURPLE DISCOLORATION)
Possible Causes: Genetics (very common), Thin skin under the eyes, visible blood vessels, poor sleep, allergies, Aging, loss of collagen, and sun damage causing pigmentation.

Best Skincare and Makeup Solutions
Peach or salmon color corrector
Light-weight hydrating concealer
Eye cream with caffeine or peptides
Retinol eye cream to thicken skin over time
Sunscreen around the eyes
Professional Cosmetic Dermatology Treatments
Laser
Chemical Peels
Plasma-Rich Plasma (PRP)

2. UNDER EYE BAGS (FAT PADS / VOLUME LOSS)
Possible Causes: Aging (very common after 50); Loss of Collagen and Elastin; Genetics, Fluid Retention; Salt Intake; Poor Sleep; and Herniated Fat Pads.

Best Skincare and Makeup Solutions
Concealer applied around the bag, not on the bag
Caffeine eye creams
Professional Cosmetic Dermatology and Surgical Treatments
Filler in the tear trough
Surgical lower blepharoplasty (most effective long-term solution
Fat Grafting

3. PUFFINESS
Possible Causes: Fluid Retention; Salt; Alcohol; Allergies; Crying; Poor Sleep; Lying Flat at Night; Sinus issues

Best Skincare Solutions
Eye Patches
Eye Gels that Contain Caffeine
Lifestyle Solutions
Sleep with your head elevated
Reduce salt and alcohol
Lymphatic Massage
Reusable gel eye mask (chilled)
Qua Sha or Jade Facial Roller (chilled)

4. FINE LINES AND CREEPY SKIN
Possible Causes: Loss of Collagen; Loss of Elastin; Sun Damage; Dehydration; Aging, Lifestyle factors such as Poor Diet, Excess Alcohol, and Smoking

Best Cosmetic Solutions
Apply a Hydrating Eye cream before concealer
Use a very small amount of hydrating concealer
Avoid or apply the smallest amount of flawless filter powder
Retinol eye cream
Professional Cosmetic Dermatology Treatments
Laser resurfacing
Microneedling
PRP treatments

5. SMALL BLUE OR PURPLE VEINS SHOWING THROUGH SKIN
Possible Causes: Under-eye skin becomes thinner with age; Genetics; Fair Skin

Best Makeup Solutions
Peach corrector
Light-reflecting concealer
Professional Cosmetic Dermatology Treatments
Laser vein treatment
PRP Treatments
Tear Trough Filler

UNDER EYE ISSUES BEST TREATED WITH PROFESSIONAL COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY

• Hollow tear troughs → Filler

• Dark pigmentation → Laser or chemical peel

• Crepey skin → CO2 laser, microneedling, PRP

• Thin skin showing veins → PRP, laser

• Puffiness → Radiofrequency tightening

• Skin laxity → Ultherapy or RF treatments
  

UNDER EYE ISSUES BEST TREATED WITH COSMETIC SURGERY

• Large under-eye bags

• Herniated fat pads

• Excess loose skin under the eyes

• Severe puffiness that never goes away
  Best Procedure
  Lower Blepharoplasty (under eye surgery)
  This is often the only permanent solution for large eye bags.
  

I hope this article has helped you better understand what a good concealer can and cannot achieve. I am not anti-concealer at all, and I use concealer on my clients and myself regularly, but I do my best to address the cosmetic concerns that are the most common questions I get from clients and in my classes. Understanding whether your concern is discoloration, puffiness, bags, hollowing, fine lines, or thin skin will help you choose the right solution instead of wasting money on products that cannot fix the problem.

Some of my favorite products for improving the appearance of the under-eye area include a peach or salmon color corrector, a hydrating concealer, a light-reflecting concealer, eye patches, and a reusable gel eye mask.

Disclaimer: This article is intended for information and entertainment purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice. For your specific under-eye concerns, please consult a qualified medical professional.